Showing posts with label travel recommendations. Show all posts

down the shore: Jersey shore recommendations

Don't you dare make me choose between the beach or the mountains, but if pressed, I will always and forever say the ocean—a Jersey girl through and through. My friend Angie recently asked to pick my brain on Jersey shore tips and recommendations and I thought I would write them up similar to other travel recommendations I've shared in the past!

Many Jersey beaches notoriously require beach tags—a pass to use the beach (which pays for lifeguards, trash removal, and keeping the beaches in pristine condition, among other things) which can typically be purchased for the day, week, or season. There are a number of free beaches interspersed as well (should the concept of beach tags prove an impediment either philosophically or financially) along the south Jersey shore.

I have personally spent the most time in Ocean City, Wildwood, Atlantic City, and Cape May, though have been to others as well (Stone Harbor, for one, as evidenced by the childhood photo at the beginning of this post!). When I was a teenager, I loved the sand bar of Atlantic City's beaches for boogie boarding, and Wildwood has a great boardwalk and really nice beaches as well (the location of a most infamous skates [a stingray lookalike] sighting when I was in high school, which resulted in a horde of screaming teenage girls running in from the water; only afterwards did we learn skates are harmless).

HELPFUL LINKS:

Free Jersey shore beaches

guide to all Jersey beaches

Philadelphia Inquirer: other transit options to the shore



FAVORITE SHORE TOWNS & RECOMMENDATIONS/NOTES:

  • Ocean City (NOT to be confused with the lesser Ocean City, Maryland!!) is my all-time favorite, in terms of the beach and the boardwalk. Beach tags are required in OC and can be purchased for daily, weekend, or seasonal durations. There are booths along the boardwalk where you can purchase with cash, or you can use a card at the Ocean City Music Pier office (on the boardwalk between 8th and 9th street and also a convenient location for public restrooms). When you enter the beach from the various ramps or stairs down from the boardwalk, there are beach staff who will need to see your beach tag. When you're out on the beach (definitely on weekends) an employee will come around periodically to check for beach tags. Some people pin theirs to their swimsuit or clothing, but I usually attach mine to my bag in a prominent/visible spot so I can easily show it but it won't get lost or washed off by waves while I'm in the water.

    There are several paid municipal parking lots close to the boardwalk but they are more expensive and tend to fill up early, but nice if you have a lot of beach gear or small kids with you as you won't have to walk far. There is some metered street parking as well but usually it is only for up to 2 hours, so you just have to keep an eye on the time to move your car. I can usually find free street parking if I am willing to walk a little further.




My go-to blocks of the boardwalk and beach are from about 8th to 12th street, but the boardwalk officially begins at 1st street and extends all the way to 23rd so there is lots to explore! (There is a certain ubiquity of vendors along the boardwalk so I don't think an exhaustive tour of the entire length is necessary, but it is definitely possible!) My favorite food vendors are all easily accessible along this stretch from 8th-12th, along with Ocean City Music Pier for beach tags and bathrooms. When you get down to the beach, you can also channel the Amalfi Coast by renting striped umbrellas and beach chairs (or boogie boards!) from Bert's! I just did this for the first time and it was lovely—the high schoolers staffing the booth will set up your chairs and umbrella, and if you need to relocate due to the tide coming in, you just have to ask and they will help you get re-situated above the tide line. They advertised a deal on their website for 2 chairs and an umbrella for the day which was overall very reasonable, and well worth the cost in my opinion.

Ocean City favorites:
    • Manco & Manco's Pizza
    • Kohn Bros. custard
    • boardwalk fries w/ malt vinegar
    • Shriver's salt water taffy (pro tip: store your taffy in the fridge and take a piece out and wait a few minutes before eating. It will soften enough to eat but the time in the fridge will allow the wax paper double-layer wrapper to peel off very easily with no mess!)
    • Fudge Kitchen
    • My favorite shop for tshirts/sweatshirts/hats/etc. (reasonable pricing and they have some great embroidered designs!) is the Shirt Shack, but I feel like I inevitably go in every store to try and find just what I am looking for because it is a boardwalk ritual.

  • Wildwood also has a boardwalk (with Kohr Bros!) and is probably my favorite of the free beaches I've been to. I haven't been since I was a teen but am hoping to revisit this summer!

  • Atlantic City is notorious for many things, but my favorite thing about it is that it provided the origins for the game Monopoly with many of its street names. When I was in high school, Atlantic City was my favorite beach for boogie boarding as it had a really nice, long sandbar. Obviously sand is subject to erosion and deposition and sedimentation, so there's not telling how much things have changed since then, but it's another of the free beach towns with a boardwalk and one of the longest seaside resorts in the country. And this summer (not sure if it's an annual thing or just this year) they have a free jazz series of concerts on the beach! Atlantic City is also the best/most expedient option if you are taking the train from Philly rather than driving!

  • Cape May, at the southernmost point of New Jersey, is quaint and has an abundance of brightly colored Victorian houses. It's also an excellent area for birding! (beach tags required) Cape May also boasts the Cape May-Lewes ferry which you can take to Delaware if you are visiting any of the Delaware beaches and prefer the sea route rather than driving on the highways.


SOMEWHAT CONFUSING BUT HOPEFULLY USEFUL DRIVING DIRECTIONS! 

As far as accessing the beaches, there are several ways to get to them, but many face lots of notoriously bad shore traffic on the weekends (be advised!). The Atlantic City Expressway is a toll road that bypasses the back roads of New Jersey in a more direct diagonal path across south Jersey, especially if you are coming from the Philadelphia area. I feel it tends to get a bit backed up in the summer, so it does not always end up being faster. My preferred but probably confusing (anytime anyone spouts driving directions of any kind to me my mind goes blank and I retain none of it, but never fear, I have a TL;DR GPS hack immediately after it) driving route is below.

MY PREFERRED ROUTE: From Philly I recommend taking I-76 East over the Walt Whitman Bridge. Follow signs for Route 42 (there is one interchange right after the bridge where the signage is a little unclear but just don't get off any exits into Camden and stay the course; then the signs immediately after this start showing Route 42. Someday maybe eventually I will contact NJDOT and ask them fix this oversight/point of confusion that still throws me off even though I have drive this route literally hundreds of times). Take Route 42 and then follow signs for and exit onto Route 55 (the signage will say Glassboro/Vineland in case city names are easier to remember than route numbers). You can wave to my family as you pass the Centerton exit! Continue on Route 55, and eventually take Exit 24 for Route 49-E via Tuckahoe. You'll turn left onto Route 49 and then stay on Route 49 until you reach Tuckahoe (about 16 miles). Turn right at the stop sign onto Rt. 50-S (which curves left; stay on 50-South for 1.9 miles). If you are going to points further south than Ocean City, you can stay on Route 50-S which eventually ends at the Garden State Parkway (running parallel to the Ocean). If you are going to Ocean City, after 1.9 miles, turn left onto Tuckahoe Road. Stay on Tuckahoe Road for 5 miles, where it changes to Old Tuckahoe Road, and then curves and becomes Roosevelt Blvd. Stay on Roosevelt Blvd for about 2.5 miles and you will reach a stoplight and intersection with Bay Avenue—you made it to Ocean City! Turn left onto Bay Avenue and once you reach a street number commensurate with the area of the boardwalk you'd like to go to, you can turn right and navigate to one of the cross streets parallel with and increasingly closer to the ocean to look for parking.

TL;DR/GPS HACK: if all of the above is way too confusing (sorry! but also not sorry!), just set your GPS for Millville, NJ upon leaving Philadelphia, then when you get on Route 55 or get closer to Millville, update the location to Ocean City, NJ. The main issue is just that the GPS apps will default to the Atlantic City Expressway which is only faster when there is *no* traffic, which is highly unlikely/unusual on a summer weekend! This confusing method of my insider directions will spare you being parked on the expressway and will allow you to subvert the default route supplied by GPS when it inevitably tries to take you via a route you don't want to go. There will likely be shore traffic but it is usually not as bad as the expressway, at least in my experience!


If you are coming from Maryland/Delaware/DC/points further south, some kind soul on this forum has written up those instructions (which kind of merges with my preferred instructions above after you get on Route 55 and may in fact be easier to follow than what I wrote above: 

Someone posted these directions for me last year and I used them. They were great -- spot on and nice back roads through NJ. Also, there is always the Ferry, which is fun.
I-95 thru Delaware, cross the Del-Mem Bridge. Take the "last exit before toll" (Rt. 40). Follow it thru Woodstown and Elmer to Rt. 55. Exit onto 55 is just before you get to Malaga. Go South on 55 through Vineland and Millville. Exit onto Rt. 49 (look for the big water tower off the highway). Follow 49 to Tuckahoe. Turn right onto Rt. 50, and follow till you get to the split off to Tuckahoe Road. (623?). At Marmora, the road turns into Roosevelt Blvd. follow Roosevelt Blvd across Rt. 9 and under the GSP and into OCNJ. (This route will drop you onto the island at 34th Street. Have a great vacation! (3 to 3.5 hours, depending on where you are starting from and when you are going 'down the shore.)


I may update this as I revisit other shore towns this summer but I wanted to get my baseline recommendations compiled and written so I can share them while there is still a lot of summer left to enjoy the lovely Jersey shore! (take me with you!)

 . . . . 

on a related note: I love this print of Jersey shore towns by illustrator Libby VanderPloeg and Haptic Lab's Jersey shore quilt is probably going to be my graduation gift to myself in a few years.

Roma: gelateria recommendations


Just so we're clear here—these are the best gelaterie in Rome:

Old Bridge (just a stone's throw outside the Vatican)
Frigidarium
Giolitti
 . . . . 

(The flavor pictured on the right is a secret gem and one of my favorites—melone. If you know, you know.)

Sistorini2k17: Scooteroma

Three years ago when Emily and I planned our dream trip to southern Italy and Greece, I had a stroke of brilliance: the moniker "Sistorini," as it was a sisters trip including a few days in Santorini. The trip was a dream to plan and to live out. The only thing which could have possibly made it better would have been to have Lauren with us.

(see our real-time trip photos here)

Our first stop was Rome—the only place on the itinerary that both of us had previously visited. The rest of the trip continued through a tiny pit (pizza) stop in Napoli, Positano on the Amalfi Coast, Santorini, and Athens (of the rest of that list, only Emily had been to Athens previously on her art history study abroad). In Rome, our priorities were of the artistic and gastronomic varieties: we made reservations in advance for the Villa Borghese (my one regret of my 2011 trip to Rome was that due to the last-minute nature of it, we couldn't get tickets) and the Musei Vaticani. Otherwise, we had our sights set on a joyful discovery of the internet—the Vespa tour company Scooteroma. We had read about it online and after doing some research, they really seemed like the best. Our two-hour tour was in Italian and we both agreed it was one of the best vacation decisions we ever made. As Rome was a return visit for us both, seeing the city on the back of a Vespa really let us enjoy the sights without the crowds, and our knowledgable local guides, Michele e Simone, took us to some beautiful and fascinating places off the beaten path (plus a stop for an afternoon gelato).

Annie, the brains and beauty behind Scooteroma, came with our drivers to meet us; our Airbnb happened to be on the same street where she lives!! She saw the address and was so curious who these new clients were! Annie was darling and we had a fun chat with her about her life in Rome as an American ex-pat.

I loved this view of this street funneling us directly to the Colosseo.

Whipping around corners and through alleyways and up streets on the back of a Vespa was so exhilarating and made for the perfect afternoon. Our ride was punctuated with a few stops at interesting sites and more in-depth discussions of Roman history. It was honestly so perfect.

This post includes a few videos from our scooter ride. Here is the Lizzie McGuire version of our vacation recap.

One of the places our guides took us was to the Pyramid of Cestius, which has a fascinating (and somewhat mysterious) origin story. 

Lol @ this photo-op where we clearly are fully in 'park'. But this drive down a stretch of the original Appian Way was beautiful; lined by stone walls and olive trees, we eventually reached the Arch of Drusus (pictured behind us). Below, cobblestones of the ancient Appian Way are bordered at the top by modern square cobblestones, forming the balance of the paving of the modern street that follows the ancient road.

This photo above is a view into the Protestant Cemetery in Rome, very nearby the Piramide di Caio Cestio. You can see the Appian Way cobblestones here running through the center of the space. Rome continues to hold so many layers of history in conglomerate, a veritable palimpsest of empires rising and falling. (also, do you see the tiny cat in the bright spot of sunlight?)

Michele e Simone took us to another part of the city to highlight this up-and-coming neighborhood. This building above is now home to a modern art museum, but it originally functioned as a slaughterhouse. The frieze reads "Stabilimento di Mattazione" and you can see the festooned cattle skulls—so wild, right?! I love visiting cities with centuries of history, particularly those whose architecture belie such histories. Amsterdam likewise carries stories of its histories in its architecture, with tiled adornments on buildings signifying the industries they were used for. In Kansas City, Missouri, in the early 1900s, different businesses employed specific and unique tiled patterns for their floors, to denote specific types of businesses—an aid to non-English speaking immigrants. These kinds of details are among my favorite things to notice when I am visiting a new place.

This slaughterhouse-cum-museum is located in an area is called Monte Testaccio or monte dei cocci. Just behind us, opposite the viewpoint of the above photo, is a large hill—fully vegetated and grown with greenery and small trees even. Michele e Simone had us look closer, and upon closer look, rather than soil, the hill made up of SHARDS OF BROKEN POTTERY—I kid you not. The wikipedia page I linked above delves more into the probably history/speculation, but it is loosely connected with the nearby had-been-Roman-Empire-olive-oil-co-op. As I said—Rome, a veritable palimpsest of ancient and modern history.

One of the last places we visited was this lovely shaded outcropping overlooking the city. Rome contains and is surrounded by seven 'colline' or hills, which can be seen from various locations in the city. But the views from the hills are likewise incredible (those photos will come in another post).

My darling dear sister. I loved her "Andiamo!" shirt with her tricolore-striped helmet.

high-up on vespa-induced happiness and an afternoon chasing history around every corner. 12 out of 10 would recommend Scooteroma to fulfill all your "Roman Holiday" dreams.

jeeping through the Rockies


In light of a smattering of far-flung posts documenting this trip, and more for my own purposes than anyone else's, below: a comprehensive list of links to posts from that best of camping trips, jeeping through the Canadian Rockies. I am also including a section on LOGISTICS, for those wishing to plan a similar trip, with my tips/observations/suggestions having done so myself.



// GENERAL //
overview
flora of the Canadian Rockies

// JASPER NATIONAL PARK //
Maligne Lake
Athabasca Falls
Mount Edith Cavell, Cavell Glacier & environs, and the Columbia Icefields

// BANFF NATIONAL PARK //
Johnston Canyon
Ink Pots
Lake Minnewanka & general mountainous splendor & a visit to town
Peyto Lake via Bow Summit
Lake Louise + en route
Frost at Midnight // Lake Moraine
Lake Moraine

// KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK //
Marble Canyon
Paint Pots

// YOHO NATIONAL PARK //
Emerald Lake + environs

 . . . . 
// LOGISTICS & OBSERVATIONS //

While it is the digital age of Google maps and cell phones, when planning any sort of activity in the backcountry, it is advisable to have analog backups (and to know how to use them). My reasons are manifold:
• spotty or non-existent cell phone service in the mountains and wilderness areas
• even in areas with service, if one is camping, access to charging capabilities may be uncertain
• you might drop your phone in a lake, and then where would you be?
• unless you have exact coordinates (and even on occasion despite having such), GPS is not always reliable for reaching trailheads or campsites
• if you're traveling out of the country (Canada uses different wireless networks), your phone data may be turned off in which case you are at the mercy of local public wifi networks (again, no promises when you're camping, although we had luck with wifi at most, if not all, visitors centers in the Rockies)

My analog backups generally include a map and a copy of our itinerary and any relevant details (I also printed off confirmation of our campsite reservations. We used the previous/no-longer-needed pages as kindling :), along with more detailed instructions/directions if needed. I typically store these documents in a ziploc bag in my gear for easy reference and to avoid water damage. National Geographic makes great maps that are durable and water-resistant; they carry many of the national parks as well as numerous international destinations.

With the proliferation of Instagram and thus the casual travel blogger, destinations like the Canadian Rockies grow more and more popular, often outpacing the adequacy of their facilities. If you hope to visit, it is advisable to plan ahead—both to minimize your impact to these natural resources, as well as to ensure that you have appropriate accommodations and lodgings. I planned my trip for July and booked my campsites on the opening day for reservations in January of the same year. I wasn't sure how competitive the campsite reservations would be, but rather than risk it, I planned well in advance. It was easy to book through the sites and I had a great experience with Parks Canada. Due to the length of my trip, I also purchased a Canadian National Parks Pass—based on the duration of our trip and the number of parks we planned to visit (we visited four and camped in two of them), it ended up being much more cost-effective to purchase a pass. I ended up using my pass again later in the year during a trip to Montréal and visited Parc de la Mauricie in Québec.

Even visiting in the summer, there are ways to minimize your touristic footprint and the broader impacts on the parks and local community. Be sure to research local regulations on things like firewood, food storage, bear precautions, and more. Many areas of Alberta, Canada, provide firewood at their campsites, due to issues in recent years with invasive species from imported/non-local wood. Many locations within the park offer shuttle services between popular sites; utilizing these cuts down on air pollution from more drivers and traffic jams in the park. Plan to visit the most popular sites early in the morning—that will likely help you avoid crowds which can push people off-trail as well as cause traffic jams in the parking lots. Planning your day strategically not only minimizes the stress of your trip, but makes for a better atmosphere for all park visitors. It's also helpful to strategically pick your campsites for proximity to areas of the parks where you plan to spend the most time, rather than traversing the large parks multiple times over the course of a few days going between camp and your day's activities.

Perhaps much of this is common sense—as someone who is detail-oriented and planning-minded, much of this is second-nature for me. I realize, though, that not everyone has my patience for this kind of planning minutiae, so hopefully these tips are of benefit to you and your camping crew! ¡Viva la camping!

Philadelphia: Recommendations


Philadelphia is one of my favorite cities and I spent a lot of time there growing up and during my college summers in New Jersey. My mom attended medical school in Center City Philadelphia in the 1980s, so her familiarity with the city definitely influenced my childhood in a major way. I've been meaning to put together a list of some Philadelphia favorites to share with friends headed east for a visit so without further ado: some Philadelphia recommendations.


transportation:
• Remember coins/change (e.g., a roll or two of quarters) for tolls on bridges & highways (better yet: E-ZPass if you have it!).
• If you plan on venturing into South Jersey, familiarize yourself with the colloquially termed "jug handles" (found mainly in South Jersey's urban areas adjacent to Philadelphia & Camden, less so in the rural and shore areas).
• The PATCO trains are a great way to get from south Jersey to Center City Philadelphia if you have a small group and wish to avoid traffic, bridge tolls, and parking fare (with a large group, my feeling is sometimes you're just better off paying a nominal fee for parking/convenience). The PATCO line also has some limited stops within Philadelphia, which may be useful depending on where you're headed. I've parked at the Collingswood and Ferry Avenue Stations on many occasions and taken the train in—it's always been reliable and quick in my experience (check the hours just in case for holidays, weekends, etc.).


favorite areas to explore:
• Society Hill - the top photo in this post is from this darling quiet neighborhood in Philadelphia. It's a beautiful area with numerous historic and beautifully preserved homes. It is a little off the beaten path as far as sight-seeing, but one of my favorite areas of the city to explore. (more photos here)
• Independence Mall & environs - the amazingness of the people-watching increases exponentially as it approaches peak Americana season (July 4).
• South Street - this is a funkier area of the city with lots of quirky shops and restaurants. It is one of the iconic areas of the city and also where the famed Magic Gardens sculpture garden is located.
• Italian Market - so much good food and lots of specialty shops.
• Ben Franklin Parkway - The best comparisons I have for the Ben Franklin Parkway are New York City's Museum Mile and Paris's Champs-Élysées. The Ben Franklin Parkway is anchored by City Hall, JFK Plaza, Logan Square, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Besides these notable locales on the Parkway, it is flanked by museums, mature trees, and greenery. It is a gorgeous area of the city and the view of the skyline from the Museum of Art steps is simply stunning.
• Old City Philadelphia - the more historic areas of Philadelphia are some of my favorite streets to explore (Society Hill falls squarely in Old City Philadelphia, as well as many of the American history sites). Some of the architectural landmarks have been well-preserved, but even in areas where the structures have not stood the test of time, there are still markers educating passerby on notable history and people who walked those streets in earlier days.


things to eat:
• Reading Terminal Market (Reading—of Monopoly fame—pronounced like so)* - Located in an old train terminal, Reading Terminal Market is conveniently near the Philadelphia Convention Center and is ideal for groups with varying dining preferences. The terminal is filled with food stands and there are tables scattered throughout, so decide on a meeting place, then let everyone fend for themselves. P.S. Soft pretzels at any of the Amish farmers market stands are delightful.
• water ice - if you want to pass for a local, replace 'water' with 'wooder' and you'll be set. Water ice is usually a seasonal treat found only in the summer months, though some water ice companies operate year-round.
• High Street on Market - This is a fairly recent discovery and easily one of my favorite spots in Philadelphia (some photos and food details here at the very end). Farm-to-table fare (with a map of Pennsylvania and their sources!!) with delicious flavors. Their menu changes with the seasons, but it looks like they have some items that stay year-round—the 'best grilled cheese ever,' for instance. I can attest to this, and I loved it even more because it was made with potato bread, a staple of the Delaware Valley and my childhood.
• The Dutch - Another fairly recent discovery and another immediate favorite! I was in Philly with my mom last September and we happened upon The Dutch when we were looking for a place to eat breakfast after she picked me up from the airport and my redeye flight. The Pennsylvania Dutch influence is evident in their colorful modern decor and the Dutch babies/German pancakes featured on the menu.
• Shake Shack - the local Shake Shack has fun shake flavors featuring local ingredients, like the Liberty Shell: vanilla custard, Termini Bros. cannoli shell, strawberry purée, and lemon ricotta(!).
• sweet green - This chain can be found on both east and west coasts, but each location features ingredients sourced from farms in the surrounding area. The Garden State is just across the river, after all!
• Federal Donuts - I can't speak for their chicken, but their donuts are top-notch. I also love the design of the small interior—the seating design solution is brilliant.
• Lorenzo's pizza - my favorite pizza in Philly (located on South Street, though it appears they have opened another location!). (P.S. if you venture down the shore, my favorite pizza down the shore is Manco and Manco, or 'Mack and Manco's,' as we locals call it, not to cause any confusion)
• cheesesteaks and hoagies—as a longtime vegetarian, I am of no help to you here. This list suggests you skip the classic Pat's-Geno's cheesesteak rivalry in favor of something more worthy of your time and taste buds. See also: Wawa's annual Hoagiefest is a beloved local event.
• Wawa - a convenient source for hoagies throughout the Delaware Valley region. I highly recommend their chocolate banana smoothie (which you can order through the order screens at the deli counter).
• The Bourse* - the Bourse was the first commodities exchange in the U.S. in the 19th Century and is recognized on the National Historic Register. Today it houses offices on its upper floors and on the main level, standard food court fare along with some eateries with a little Philadelphia flair. It's nothing too fancy, but the architecture is gorgeous and it is a nice escape to the air conditioning if you're in the neighborhood (Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell are a stone's throw away).
• Nuts to You - this is more for if you're in the neighborhood and in need of a snack, but they're a longtime Philadelphian business and my mom went there back when she was in medical school.
*good for groups


museums & monuments:
• Philadelphia Museum of Art - the Philadelphia Museum of Art is wonderful. They have an impressive permanent collection (favorites include VanGogh's sunflowers and the Impressionists; the Cy Twombly gallery; architectural installations: Japanese teahouse, Indian temple, and Chinese palace hall; and decorative arts, specifically of the 1950s and 1960s). Their special exhibits are also great and well-curated—some favorites I've seen were Frida Kahlo and Manet and the Sea. The base of the iconic front steps also houses a statue of Rocky, for any fans who might be reading.
• The Barnes Foundation - while their move to Center City was highly controversial, the Barnes has been reconfigured faithfully and with integrity and their new location is so accessible. I love the Matisse murals and the Barnes is an incredible art experience and glimpse into a brilliant mind. It is unlike any other museum or private collection I have seen—Albert Barnes's philosophies and the breadth of his collection and the ways he organized it are fascinating. I love the metalwork which is placed strategically and calls attention to interesting patterns and repeated forms in the art juxtaposed with it.
• Rodin Museum - located on the Ben Franklin Parkway and a great museum to see if you've already seen the two aforementioned museums.
• Independence Hall - These last three are pretty self-explanatory and located in close proximity. The square behind Independence Hall is lovely and shaded with lots of trees (including a moon tree!).
• the Liberty Bell - I love the thoughtful architecture of the Liberty Bell monument (photographic evidence above).
• the Constitution Center - the highlight of our high school field trip to the Constitution Center was the room full of bronze statues of the Constitution signers with whom we took many a silly photo.


shops & miscellany:
• 18th & Walnut Street Anthropologie - see the photo above—this Anthropologie store is located in the most beautiful building. The central staircase is my favorite feature, but they use all the architectural details of this space to their fullest potential and it is amazing at any time of year (although as evidenced above, Christmastime is magical) to see what installations are filling the space.
• shopping on Walnut Street - one of my favorite things about Philadelphia is that the cross streets in Center City were originally named for the types of trees which lined the street. I think this is such a brilliant idea and as a plant enthusiast, I wholeheartedly approve. Walnut Street in particular is home to great shopping and restaurants.
• Chinatown - always a go-to for fun stationery and office supplies


gardens and parks:
• terrain - the garden-center sister of Anthropologie and every bit as magical.
• the Philadelphia Flower Show - incredible, always. One of my favorite Flower Shows (when I was in high school) featured an Alice in Wonderland scene of 'painting the roses red.' 
• Robert Indiana's LOVE statue in JFK Plaza - an iconic landmark in the City of Brotherly Love.
• There didn't seem to be a great spot to include this, but Philadelphia is a city full of amazing murals. Above is a photo of one of my favorites, flanking a small courtyard and showing large-scale botanical illustrations (strawberries, tulip trees, juniper, and others). Mural Arts Philadelphia facilitates guided tours and has maps online for self-guided tours of 'mural mile.' I haven't done a proper tour, but in my many years of exploring Philly, I can attest to the strong public arts programs and talented street artists there. My dad became acquainted with a local mural artist and arranged some field trips for the students he teaches (and for the Multicultural Club he runs after school). One time we got to go with him to help with painting a mural; the artist had formulated a paint-by-number for his designs that made collaboration with community members, school kids, and others so simple. One of the murals I love by this mural artist is a monumental draped American flag on a building, visible on your right as you cross the Ben Franklin Bridge into the city.


other Liz favorites:
• the Dream Garden by Maxfield Parrish and Louis Comfort Tiffany studios - my mom's favorite and mine too. Maxfield Parrish is one of the famous illustrators of the 'Golden Age of Illustrators' and one of several of the period from the Philadelphia area. This mosaic collaboration was going to be demolished but it was purchased by the Philadelphia Academy of the Fine Arts and is beautifully showcased in the lobby of an office building across the street from Independence Hall. THAT PARRISH BLUE.
• Philadelphia Free Library - fun to explore and they always have neat events and private collections on display. My cousins and I visited when there was a showcase of Beatrix Potter's illustrations and letters and it was one of my favorite things.
• Philadelphia LDS Temple - if you visit after you see Independence Hall, you may pick up on the themes and colors of Federal architecture and design (both exterior and interior), which I really love. It is such a beautiful temple.
• Joe Fox Bookshop (for You've Got Mail! aficionados) - I think this speaks for itself.
• Society Hill - already noted above, but worth a second mention. The 500-block of Delancey Street is particularly amazing.


off the beaten path:
• day trip to the Jersey shore - my favorite beaches in New Jersey are, in no particular order, Ocean City, Wildwood, Atlantic City, and Cape May. Atlantic City has the perfect long sandbar if you enjoy boogie boarding or body-surfing. Ocean City has the best boardwalk (and pizza!). Wildwood is just a longtime favorite. Cape May is probably the most historic, home to lovely Victorian houses and the Cape May-Lewes ferry.
• Brandywine River Museum in Chadds Ford, PA - a family favorite featuring several generations of Wyeths. The architecture is particularly lovely, as is its location in rural Pennsylvania.
• Lancaster, PA - some of the prettiest country in the east coast. My dad would take frequent business trips to western Pennsylvania's farming communities and I grew up loving Lancaster and environs.
• antique shopping in Mullica Hill, NJ - not far from Philadelphia and a quaint south Jersey community with a lot of unique antique shops and antique malls.

LOVE you, Philly.

PARIS: recommendations


The city of light is one of my favorite places on this earth and having just gotten back from another visit, I think it honestly gets better with age (just like their cheese!). I've had a number of friends ask for my favorite Paris tips and recommendations recently, so I aggregated a list that I can refer to and pass on to fellow travelers. My friend Heather asked the best questions so I'm just going to quote her: 
"Liz. I'm going to Paris for my FIRST TIME and I can hardly wait. . . But I must pick your brain because you are one of the travelers I respect most. Best food? Best stores (especially antiques or rare finds)? Walking tour, boat tour, or bus tour? Top of the Eiffel tour or top of arc? Anything off the beaten path that is a must do? Or even on the beat path that I must do? I'm so overwhelmed! How can there be so much in such a small place?!?!"

With that, here is a list of things I love and recommend in Paris. It is by no means a definitive guide, and while some of this list is intended for the first-time visitor to Paris (i.e., the museums and monuments section—not that you won't go to museums on a return trip, but these are more general tips/opinions for a newcomer!), other things are more general recommendations or especially ideal for people who are planning a return trip. So please, take this list with a grain of salt, still do your own research and planning, and most of all, enjoy your time in Paris!!!



favorite Paris films:
Midnight in Paris • Charade • Sabrina (about one's emotional connection to Paris) • Sabrina • How to Steal a Million • this post has some fun suggestions of well-known movie sights to visit.

transportation:
• walking - Paris is a very walkable city and this is one of my favorite ways to experience the city. Depending on your interests and what you want to see, there is no shortage of walking tours in books, podcasts, or online!
• Paris metro - The Paris metro system is one of the best in the world and one of my favorites. The lines are well marked and easy to navigate (though the RER lines—running to locales outside the city proper—can be a little trickier). Depending on the length of your stay, you may want to look into getting a Navigo card. Otherwise, I recommend purchasing a carnet of metro tickets (buying your metro tickets in bulk gives you a little price advantage). Metro tickets also work for the bus system (make sure to validate when you board the bus!) and the buses are also an excellent way to get around (though during peak traffic times, the metro is your best bet!). Bus routes are a little trickier to navigate but Google Maps public transit feature make it easier to research transit options like buses.
• Vélib' - I have a lot of personal hangups/anxieties about bicycle riding in general so I have not tried this, but many friends have loved their experiences using the Vélib' (vélo is bicycle) bike rentals in Paris. Jordan Ferney has a great post with more information about how to get started.
• Boat tours of the Seine - I have not done this, but it's on my list! I don't have a recommendation for a specific operator, but Batobus is one of the well-known boat services and there are lots of others. Or you could stay in a houseboat (now I wish I'd thought to look for houseboat Airbnbs before my most recent trip :) I'll try not to be too jealous if you go this route)!!


favorite areas to explore:
• the 7th arrondissement - akin to NYC's Upper East Side, this area near la Tour Eiffel is filled with quaint quiet residential streets, beautiful wrought iron balcony railings, and classic Parisian charm.
• le Marais - Rue de Rosiers has so many great restaurants, street food vendors, and shops. The Marais is a great area of the city with narrow winding streets, interesting shops and restaurants, and cobblestone streets.
• along the Seine and the îles - I love walking along the Seine and people-watching or taking lunch for a riverside picnic. The bridges are very pedestrian-friendly and the Pont des Arts is the famous Parisian bridge known for its adornment of love locks.
• Montmartre - I have recently joined sides with the Montmartre fans. My friend Susannah gave me some good tips which made all the difference for me this time around—she loves walking along Rue des Martyrs and if you steer clear of Boulevard de Clichy (Moulin Rouge etc.), then you tend to find the lovely quaint areas of Montmartre that everyone talks about. This is definitely a seedier area of the city, so as always in large cities, be vigilant against pickpockets; keep your valuables tucked away and cross-body bags are always a great idea (the same advice would apply even to places like the Louvre when viewing the Mona Lisa, or sitting in a crowded restaurant—keep an eye on your things; it is easy to be caught unawares and become a target of a pickpocket).
• public gardens and parks - more on these below!

things to eat:
• Poilâne - pain levain and tarte aux pommes (apple tart)!! There is a location on the Rue du Cherche-midi, not far from the Musée d’Orsay.
• Berthillon ice cream (check their hours, as they vary by day and seasonally)
• Angelina's - chocolat chaud. It's less what you'd expect from an American-style hot chocolate and more a thick, heavenly, rich sipping chocolate and it is to die for.
• L’Éclair de Génie - these éclairs are a pretty penny, but they are gorgeous, made with beautiful and flavorful ingredients, and they have such interesting flavors.
• Ladurée - my favorite macarons, hands down (allergy note: macarons are made with almonds).
• La Droguerie - great crêpes in the Marais. My favorite sweet crêpes are citron et sucre (lemon and sugar) and nutella. La Droguerie has amazing savory crêpes as well; I tried La Reine at the recommendation of my friend Susannah and it was amazing.
• at any reputable boulangerie/patisserie - croissant, baguette, croissant aux amandes (powdered-sugar-and-sliced-almond-encrusted croissant), pain au chocolat—these are some staples, but some of my best discoveries have been to request one of anything that looks delicious or interesting.
• During the summer, there is a sorbet cart around the corner from Notre-Dame and their pear and raspberry sorbets are out of this world. I realize this is not very specific, but it is important to note.
• L'As du Falafel - great falafel and schwarma in the Marais.
• fromageries - there are small cheese shops throughout the city and you can purchase small amounts of various types of cheese (I love brie!) to accompany a baguette from the boulangerie next-door. Even a Monoprix with a grocery section (what I lovingly refer to as the Target of France) has an impressive cheese selection—you can get amazing cheese for under 2-5€!


museums & monuments:
• Musée du Louvre - The Louvre is amazing and obviously a Paris staple. The Nike of Samothrace, or Winged Victory, is my favorite and there are so many other amazing things in the Louvre collection. That being said, it's a massive museum and can be an overwhelming experience. The building where it is housed was not designed as a museum, and in my experience it is confusing and crowded to navigate. I recommend getting tickets online in advance in order to skip some of the lines. I also recommend identifying your priorities as far as what you want to see; the museum plan identifies a few of the highlights, but it is easy to miss something you might want to see since it is massive. P.S. There is a Vermeer exhibit right now, which I wish I had been able to get tickets to!
• Musée d'Orsay - One of my favorite museums in Paris. It is built inside an old train station and the architecture is stunning. They have an impressive impressionist, post-impressionist, and decorative arts collection in particular. If you can only go to one or two museums, please make this one of them!!
• Musée d'Orangerie - Another one of my favorite museums in Paris. The monumental Monet water lilies are so serene and I love the design of those galleries. The lower levels house other impressionist and post-impressionist collections.
• Centre Pompidou - Designed by Pritzker Prize-winner Renzo Piano, this was a controversial project in the heart of Paris, but is now an iconic landmark on the city skyline and known for its modern art collection. The escalator along one façade of the building which takes you to the top floor has amazing views of the surrounding area.
• Sainte-Chappelle - this is my favorite cathedral in Paris; it's like being inside of a Fabergé egg!
• Sacre-Coeur - the modern stained glass is so pretty and this is another of those landmarks you can spot from all over the city.
• Versailles - a great day trip! Versailles is singularly spectacular and ostentatious. My sister and her friends rented bikes and rode around the gardens; it was rainy when I went, so unfortunately I limited my visit to the indoors, but I really want to make it back to visit the Petit Trianon and the grounds!
• Arc de Triomphe - my favorite view of the city. It is especially magical at dusk, and once night falls, the Eiffel Tower sparkles on the hour (Paris, are you for real?). Bonus: the Eiffel Tower is prominent in all of your photos. (re: Heather's question about top of the Arc vs. Eiffel Tower—I have never been to the top of the Eiffel Tower, but see some of my thoughts below under Gardens and parks > Champ de Mars; I have been to the top of the Notre-Dame bell tower and top of the Arc de Triomphe and loved both! They are very different views of the city, but you should do at least one!!)


shops & miscellany:
• Shakespeare & Company bookstore
• Merci - you will want to buy everything.
• Marché aux Puces - this post has great directions and tips for the Paris flea market.
• Le Bon Marché - the most gorgeous high-end department store imaginable.
• COS - clothing store with beautiful Scandinavian-type silhouettes.
• Zara and H&M and their ilk are arguably better in Europe.
• Fleux' - a cool concept store (I discovered this on my most recent visit and it was very crowded so I kept my window shopping brief).
• Throughout Europe, there are winter and summer sale months where stores have huge markdowns as they clear out their inventory. In France, you'll see signs everywhere proclaiming the SOLDES (more info here).

gardens & parks:
• Jardin des Tuileries - This is one of my favorite gardens in Paris and is conveniently located next to the Louvre and Musee d'Orangerie. In the summertime, the dahlias are stunning. One of my favorite features of Parisian gardens are the green metal chairs (in side, arm, and lounge iterations) scattered throughout the gardens. The public gardens are wonderful for a brief respite from sight-seeing or some people watching while you plan your next adventure!
• Jardin du Luxembourg - This is another of my favorite gardens in Paris and also boasts the green lawn chairs.
• Champ de Mars - this is the park and grounds at the base of the Eiffel Tower. I tend to stay far away from the base of the tower, as things become increasingly touristy and the dreamy ambiance immediately evaporates with the raucous trinket vendors and throngs. The Champ du Mars, however, is lovely and my favorite area from which to experience the Eiffel Tower. There are meandering paths lined with beautiful flower gardens and park benches, and many opportune spots for a picnic.


other Liz favorites:
• Marché aux fleurs à Île de la cité - I love all things botanical, so the flower market is obviously right up my alley. Walking through the Marché aux fleurs was one of the best sensory experiences of my life.
• Le mur des je t'aime - this wall is located in a park right outside the Abbesses metro stop in Montmartre; it is lovely and quaint.
• Musée de Quai Branly - this museum is next to the river near the Eiffel Tower and its façade is composed of live plants and it is amazing. I haven't actually visited the museum, but the architecture is très cool if you happen to be in the area for a walk-by. [I just learned the architect was Jean Nouvel—I should have known.]
• Bibliothèque Nationale de la France Richelieu reading room - all of the heart eyes.
• Musée Rodin and gardens - I love Rodin and the estate which houses the Rodin Museum is beautiful. As an Italian literature aficionado and Dante devotée, I really love Rodin's sculptural works interpreting the Divina Commedia. The gardens are exquisite and many of his bronze sculptural works (including "The Thinker") are on display in the gardens.

other:
• The EU has some amazing opportunities for European young people, as far as free access to amazing museums and resources. Some of these things do not extend to American young adults, but it is always worth checking! Many venues have special events, ticket prices, or reduced admission for visitors under a certain age. For example, right now the Musee d'Orangerie is advertising free admission to the museum for an event for 18-30 year olds in May. On any trip, there is only time for so much, so I always recommend doing research, as you might stumble upon something that makes those difficult sight-seeing-opportunity-cost decisions marginally easier!
• David Lebovitz's blog is a great resource for restaurant and food recommendations in Paris.
• Jordan Ferney of Oh Happy Day lived in Paris for a couple years and her blog is full of great Paris tips.
• My first visit to Paris, I bought a Paris Pass or an equivalent type of museum/attractions pass (I can't recall the exact name). If you plan on seeing even a few of the included attractions, it can be well worth the money. Museum admissions are pricey and add up quickly (even going to the top of the Arc de Triomphe is about 12€), so this was a great investment my first time in Paris when I was doing a lot of traditional sight-seeing and museum-hopping.


Bon voyage!!!!
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