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rain glancing off slate rooftops. the smell of the flower market. chalk dust palimpsests. sunlight dancing through a canopy of horse-chestnut trees. the muscle memory of the boulanger. crumbling stone. spent petals littering the ground—the loveliest confetti to celebrate spring. french doors & french windows & french everything, actually. shrink-wrapped books gathering dust and dew. herbs spilling out of a windowsill greenhouse. the hum of the crowd and the hum of the orchestra and the hum of the painting above them. the peeling green paint of a park bench. church bells (layers of them). magnolias in bloom and lilacs on the cusp. a twinkling at dusk.
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"America is my country and Paris is my home town." –Gertrude Stein
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"Comment s'appelle ça?"
"La rhododendron."
"Alors, c'est la même."
/ / / /
I already thought Paris was perfect—then I visited during the spring. Ça c'était vraiment parfaît.
The city of light is one of my favorite places on this earth and having just gotten back from another visit, I think it honestly gets better with age (just like their cheese!). I've had a number of friends ask for my favorite Paris tips and recommendations recently, so I aggregated a list that I can refer to and pass on to fellow travelers. My friend
Heather asked the best questions so I'm just going to quote her:
"Liz. I'm going to Paris for my FIRST TIME and I can hardly wait. . . But I must pick your brain because you are one of the travelers I respect most. Best food? Best stores (especially antiques or rare finds)? Walking tour, boat tour, or bus tour? Top of the Eiffel tour or top of arc? Anything off the beaten path that is a must do? Or even on the beat path that I must do? I'm so overwhelmed! How can there be so much in such a small place?!?!"
With that, here is a list of things I love and recommend in Paris. It is by no means a definitive guide, and while some of this list is intended for the first-time visitor to Paris (i.e., the museums and monuments section—not that you won't go to museums on a return trip, but these are more general tips/opinions for a newcomer!), other things are more general recommendations or especially ideal for people who are planning a return trip. So please, take this list with a grain of salt, still do your own research and planning, and most of all, enjoy your time in Paris!!!
favorite Paris films:
Midnight in Paris • Charade • Sabrina (about one's emotional connection to Paris) • Sabrina • How to Steal a Million • this post has some fun suggestions of well-known movie sights to visit.
transportation:
• walking - Paris is a very walkable city and this is one of my favorite ways to experience the city. Depending on your interests and what you want to see, there is no shortage of walking tours in books, podcasts, or online!
• Paris metro - The Paris metro system is one of the best in the world and one of my favorites. The lines are well marked and easy to navigate (though the RER lines—running to locales outside the city proper—can be a little trickier). Depending on the length of your stay, you may want to look into getting a Navigo card. Otherwise, I recommend purchasing a carnet of metro tickets (buying your metro tickets in bulk gives you a little price advantage). Metro tickets also work for the bus system (make sure to validate when you board the bus!) and the buses are also an excellent way to get around (though during peak traffic times, the metro is your best bet!). Bus routes are a little trickier to navigate but Google Maps public transit feature make it easier to research transit options like buses.
• Vélib' - I have a lot of personal hangups/anxieties about bicycle riding in general so I have not tried this, but many friends have loved their experiences using the Vélib' (vélo is bicycle) bike rentals in Paris. Jordan Ferney has a great post with more information about how to get started.
• Boat tours of the Seine - I have not done this, but it's on my list! I don't have a recommendation for a specific operator, but Batobus is one of the well-known boat services and there are lots of others. Or you could stay in a houseboat (now I wish I'd thought to look for houseboat Airbnbs before my most recent trip :) I'll try not to be too jealous if you go this route)!!
favorite areas to explore:
• the 7th arrondissement - akin to NYC's Upper East Side, this area near la Tour Eiffel is filled with quaint quiet residential streets, beautiful wrought iron balcony railings, and classic Parisian charm.
• le Marais - Rue de Rosiers has so many great restaurants, street food vendors, and shops. The Marais is a great area of the city with narrow winding streets, interesting shops and restaurants, and cobblestone streets.
• along the Seine and the îles - I love walking along the Seine and people-watching or taking lunch for a riverside picnic. The bridges are very pedestrian-friendly and the Pont des Arts is the famous Parisian bridge known for its adornment of love locks.
• Montmartre - I have recently joined sides with the Montmartre fans. My friend Susannah gave me some good tips which made all the difference for me this time around—she loves walking along Rue des Martyrs and if you steer clear of Boulevard de Clichy (Moulin Rouge etc.), then you tend to find the lovely quaint areas of Montmartre that everyone talks about. This is definitely a seedier area of the city, so as always in large cities, be vigilant against pickpockets; keep your valuables tucked away and cross-body bags are always a great idea (the same advice would apply even to places like the Louvre when viewing the Mona Lisa, or sitting in a crowded restaurant—keep an eye on your things; it is easy to be caught unawares and become a target of a pickpocket).
• public gardens and parks - more on these below!
things to eat:
• Poilâne - pain levain and tarte aux pommes (apple tart)!! There is a location on the Rue du Cherche-midi, not far from the Musée d’Orsay.
• Berthillon ice cream (check their hours, as they vary by day and seasonally)
• Angelina's - chocolat chaud. It's less what you'd expect from an American-style hot chocolate and more a thick, heavenly, rich sipping chocolate and it is to die for.
• L’Éclair de Génie - these éclairs are a pretty penny, but they are gorgeous, made with beautiful and flavorful ingredients, and they have such interesting flavors.
• Ladurée - my favorite macarons, hands down (allergy note: macarons are made with almonds).
• La Droguerie - great crêpes in the Marais. My favorite sweet crêpes are citron et sucre (lemon and sugar) and nutella. La Droguerie has amazing savory crêpes as well; I tried La Reine at the recommendation of my friend Susannah and it was amazing.
• at any reputable boulangerie/patisserie - croissant, baguette, croissant aux amandes (powdered-sugar-and-sliced-almond-encrusted croissant), pain au chocolat—these are some staples, but some of my best discoveries have been to request one of anything that looks delicious or interesting.
• During the summer, there is a sorbet cart around the corner from Notre-Dame and their pear and raspberry sorbets are out of this world. I realize this is not very specific, but it is important to note.
• L'As du Falafel - great falafel and schwarma in the Marais.
• fromageries - there are small cheese shops throughout the city and you can purchase small amounts of various types of cheese (I love brie!) to accompany a baguette from the boulangerie next-door. Even a Monoprix with a grocery section (what I lovingly refer to as the Target of France) has an impressive cheese selection—you can get amazing cheese for under 2-5€!
museums & monuments:
• Musée du Louvre - The Louvre is amazing and obviously a Paris staple. The Nike of Samothrace, or Winged Victory, is my favorite and there are so many other amazing things in the Louvre collection. That being said, it's a massive museum and can be an overwhelming experience. The building where it is housed was not designed as a museum, and in my experience it is confusing and crowded to navigate. I recommend getting tickets online in advance in order to skip some of the lines. I also recommend identifying your priorities as far as what you want to see; the museum plan identifies a few of the highlights, but it is easy to miss something you might want to see since it is massive. P.S. There is a Vermeer exhibit right now, which I wish I had been able to get tickets to!
• Musée d'Orsay - One of my favorite museums in Paris. It is built inside an old train station and the architecture is stunning. They have an impressive impressionist, post-impressionist, and decorative arts collection in particular. If you can only go to one or two museums, please make this one of them!!
• Musée d'Orangerie - Another one of my favorite museums in Paris. The monumental Monet water lilies are so serene and I love the design of those galleries. The lower levels house other impressionist and post-impressionist collections.
• Centre Pompidou - Designed by Pritzker Prize-winner Renzo Piano, this was a controversial project in the heart of Paris, but is now an iconic landmark on the city skyline and known for its modern art collection. The escalator along one façade of the building which takes you to the top floor has amazing views of the surrounding area.
• Sainte-Chappelle - this is my favorite cathedral in Paris; it's like being inside of a Fabergé egg!
• Sacre-Coeur - the modern stained glass is so pretty and this is another of those landmarks you can spot from all over the city.
• Versailles - a great day trip! Versailles is singularly spectacular and ostentatious. My sister and her friends rented bikes and rode around the gardens; it was rainy when I went, so unfortunately I limited my visit to the indoors, but I really want to make it back to visit the Petit Trianon and the grounds!
• Arc de Triomphe - my favorite view of the city. It is especially magical at dusk, and once night falls, the Eiffel Tower sparkles on the hour (Paris, are you for real?). Bonus: the Eiffel Tower is prominent in all of your photos. (re: Heather's question about top of the Arc vs. Eiffel Tower—I have never been to the top of the Eiffel Tower, but see some of my thoughts below under Gardens and parks > Champ de Mars; I have been to the top of the Notre-Dame bell tower and top of the Arc de Triomphe and loved both! They are very different views of the city, but you should do at least one!!)
shops & miscellany:
• Shakespeare & Company bookstore
• Merci - you will want to buy everything.
• Marché aux Puces - this post has great directions and tips for the Paris flea market.
• Le Bon Marché - the most gorgeous high-end department store imaginable.
• COS - clothing store with beautiful Scandinavian-type silhouettes.
• Zara and H&M and their ilk are arguably better in Europe.
• Fleux' - a cool concept store (I discovered this on my most recent visit and it was very crowded so I kept my window shopping brief).
• Throughout Europe, there are winter and summer sale months where stores have huge markdowns as they clear out their inventory. In France, you'll see signs everywhere proclaiming the SOLDES (more info here).
gardens & parks:
•
Jardin des Tuileries - This is one of my favorite gardens in Paris and is conveniently located next to the Louvre and Musee d'Orangerie. In the summertime, the dahlias are stunning. One of my favorite features of Parisian gardens are the green metal chairs (in side, arm, and lounge iterations) scattered throughout the gardens. The public gardens are wonderful for a brief respite from sight-seeing or some people watching while you plan your next adventure!
•
Jardin du Luxembourg - This is another of my favorite gardens in Paris and also boasts the green lawn chairs.
•
Champ de Mars - this is the park and grounds at the base of the Eiffel Tower. I tend to stay far away from the base of the tower, as things become increasingly touristy and the dreamy ambiance immediately evaporates with the raucous trinket vendors and throngs. The Champ du Mars, however, is lovely and my favorite area from which to experience the Eiffel Tower. There are meandering paths lined with beautiful flower gardens and park benches, and many opportune spots for a picnic.
other Liz favorites:
• Marché aux fleurs à Île de la cité - I love all things botanical, so the flower market is obviously right up my alley. Walking through the Marché aux fleurs was one of the best sensory experiences of my life.
• Le mur des je t'aime - this wall is located in a park right outside the Abbesses metro stop in Montmartre; it is lovely and quaint.
• Musée de Quai Branly - this museum is next to the river near the Eiffel Tower and its façade is composed of live plants and it is amazing. I haven't actually visited the museum, but the architecture is très cool if you happen to be in the area for a walk-by. [I just learned the architect was Jean Nouvel—I should have known.]
• Bibliothèque Nationale de la France Richelieu reading room - all of the heart eyes.
• Musée Rodin and gardens - I love Rodin and the estate which houses the Rodin Museum is beautiful. As an Italian literature aficionado and Dante devotée, I really love Rodin's sculptural works interpreting the Divina Commedia. The gardens are exquisite and many of his bronze sculptural works (including "The Thinker") are on display in the gardens.
other:
• The EU has some amazing opportunities for European young people, as far as free access to amazing museums and resources. Some of these things do not extend to American young adults, but it is always worth checking! Many venues have special events, ticket prices, or reduced admission for visitors under a certain age. For example, right now the Musee d'Orangerie is advertising free admission to the museum for an event for 18-30 year olds in May. On any trip, there is only time for so much, so I always recommend doing research, as you might stumble upon something that makes those difficult sight-seeing-opportunity-cost decisions marginally easier!
• David Lebovitz's blog is a great resource for restaurant and food recommendations in Paris.
• Jordan Ferney of Oh Happy Day lived in Paris for a couple years and her blog is full of great Paris tips.
• My first visit to Paris, I bought a Paris Pass or an equivalent type of museum/attractions pass (I can't recall the exact name). If you plan on seeing even a few of the included attractions, it can be well worth the money. Museum admissions are pricey and add up quickly (even going to the top of the Arc de Triomphe is about 12€), so this was a great investment my first time in Paris when I was doing a lot of traditional sight-seeing and museum-hopping.
Bon voyage!!!!
Nous avons bien mangé à Paris.
And that is all I have to say about that.
. . .
Annecy is just a short bus ride away from Geneva, across the border into France. Several of my friends who served LDS missions in France had told me about Annecy as being one of their favorite places, and it's easy to see why. The town is beautiful, and the canals cutting through the winding streets mirror the blue blue sky above and the colors of the buildings running alongside.
What I loved most about Annecy: speculoos & kinder bueno ice cream, and visiting this château situated above the town which housed a museum and an aquarium! (random, but great). I love experiencing architecture in a peripheral sort of way like this, where the building itself was not the main attraction (although maybe it was for me), but rather housed the attraction and so the architectural element is an added bonus.
[chouette is French for swell, terrific, sweet, other related synonyms. you get the idea.]
Emily introduced me to Le Petit Nicolas, which is based on a series of French children's books, and it instantly became a favorite of mine. It's quite possible that I have never laughed so hard while watching a movie, and the clever, subtle details in the story and various scenes made it even better.
p.s. It's making me even more excited for my French & Italian cinema class next semester!
My friend Leanna shared this video and I absolutely love it.
It is short and concise, yet it tells a story quite wonderfully. I love the cinematography and I especially like the use of macarons for showing color words; the bright and vivid imagery is perfect. Then there's the typography. Don't even get me started on that.
It's actually an advertisement for a study abroad program, and there are several other short films showing various other locations (London, Barcelona, etc.). I really hope they make one for Italy and Italian, because as much as I am a closet Francophile, I love Italy most.
There have been two rolls of film sitting on my desk which I've been waiting to develop. I finally caved, though, and dropped off one roll. My oh my! I was in for a surprise when all of the photos that I got back turned out so well. It's arbitrary, really, what with it being a plastic camera.
This double exposure! Ah! This was such a joy to find in with the other photos. Most of the time, I wind the camera after taking a photo, but every once in a while, I don't wind it, which sets it up for a double exposure. I usually don't remember that I've done that, so when it happens, it's always exciting to see how it turns out.
I think this one is particularly lovely with the pattern of the base of the Eiffel Tower intersecting with a hint of some Parisian buildings.
It's interesting to look at these, as they have a grey tone to them. Holga cameras work better in bright sunlight, but these just reflect the grey, rainy weather that was present when I was.
This first photo has been living on my computer desktop for a while (cue title). When I was in Paris, I discovered a store called Monoprix, which I think of as 'the Target of Paris.' I happened across it while I was looking for something else, but I'm glad I wandered in—the store said so much about European and specifically French culture and I loved it. And in the children's section I saw this backpack which I still think is the greatest.
That's right, a backpack disguised as a satchel. Euro children at their classiest.
I obtained this photo from their website, but unfortunately I cannot find the exact link.
[Zara Home in Paris. THIS EXISTS]
Zara, another European store, has a site featuring a collection of photographs of the 50 states, a series called "
Dear America," since they just opened their US website.
The photographs are so very dreamy and lovely, and as a whole I love that they reflect different aspects of the fifty nifty [United States].
