If you have read or followed my blog for any considerable length of time, you may know that I am in a (losing?) battle of playing catch-up with my photos and related writings of the last several years. I remain undeterred, so without further ado—this, the latest installment of my blog backlog.

In late July 2017, I was visiting my parents and we went to the Brandywine River Museum to see "Andrew Wyeth: In Retrospect," a show in honor of the artist's 100th birthday. I have always loved the Wyeths and for fellow Wyeth-lovers, the Brandywine River Museum is an essential museum experience. The museum is built in an old mill on the Brandywine River in Chadds Ford, PA and the modern museum architecture has multi-story panoramic windows looking out over the river. A summer visit to the museum is incredibly lovely, with the lush greenery of the gardens outside and along the riverbanks. Standing on an upper story of the museum, you can look out directly into the treetops and watch as boaters on kayak or canoe pass by on the waters below.

When I was in high school, my art teacher, Mrs. Mortimer, did the most incredible job of connecting and interrelating so many artists and periods of art history, including a great deal of local artists. In hindsight, I see how amazing our class field trips were—we visited the Brandywine River Museum, saw the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and visited the Delaware Art Museum after studying the PRB (Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood) and Dale Chihuly (an installation of his "Persians" is on view there). In her class is where I learned about and fell in love with the work of Maxfield Parrish (that Parrish blue!) and so many other artists.

Back to the Brandywine—the museum features the works of three generations of Wyeths—N.C., Andrew, and Jamie. N.C. was part of the contingent of artists and illustrators in the area during the "Golden Age of Illustration." Among them, Howard Pyle and Maxfield Parrish were others from the Philadelphia region and some of their work is included in the museum's holdings as well. My favorite pieces by N.C. are the monumental illustrations for books like "Treasure Island." My family has a copy of "Treasure Island" with Wyeth's illustrations and the endpaper is so menacing and perfect. I remember my Aunt Julia visiting when I was a kid and she read aloud to us from "Treasure Island" and we pored over the illustrations together. It is fascinating to walk through the museum and see the original paintings for the book, which are enormous and filled with incredible texture, use of color and light, and detail. It is also amazing to see the artistic influences passed from father to son and to note where there are obvious overlaps in the Wyeths' technical training and subject matter. Of the three artists, I certainly have a fondness for N.C.'s work, and it is always interesting to consider that Jamie was a contemporary of Andy Warhol, but Andrew Wyeth remains my favorite. His landscapes and scenery are spare but rich with texture and detail. I bought several postcards from the exhibit and have rotated them through among my art hanging on my bedroom walls. Following, some of my favorites from the exhibit, in photos.

The painting pictured above is titled "Goodbye" (2008) and was Wyeth's last painting before his death in 2009. The text panel below shares more details of the painting, depicting one of the Wyeth's familiar Maine locales. 

The painting above is titled "Hoffman's Slough" and is a view of a Brandywine Valley landscape familiar to and frequented by Wyeth. The horizon just barely dips below the top of the frame and once again, I am stunned by Wyeth's landscapes and the enveloping presence he imbues them with. The detail shot below illustrates further the dramatic sense of scale at play here—the only apparent structures being a tiny house and barn just below the horizon near the top edge of the painting. I love the light from the unseen sky reflected in the water of this shadowy landscape.

My postcard souvenirs from the exhibit feature the paintings above and below. <3

I think another of the reasons I love Wyeth's work so is that so much of his subject matter resonates in its familiarity and nostalgic qualities. Because I grew up so near to where he lived, his subject landscapes and structures carry such a feeling of home for me.

so much gorgeous texture and light in this exterior photo of the museum. I love the warm red brick juxtaposed against the greenery. Rustic vernacular architecture with its use of found stones remains one of my favorite types.

"Trodden Weed," which has something of the ethos of Albrecht Dürer's "Great Piece of Turf" (another piece which was the subject of my high school art class's study).

The millstones from the mill's operational days are embedded in pavement and stone walkways throughout the museum complex. The museum's logo also features one such millstone and I love it so.

above and below: the gardens outside the museum, ft. cosmos and sculptures

the lace curtains!! and worn roller shade! So exquisite.

This is the view of the river outside the museum. It's such a beautiful valley, and Terrain and Longwood Gardens are both very closeby!

above: a beautiful stone barn located near the museum. My dad obligingly pulled the car over so I could get out and take a photo, as I am wont to do.

It's been so long since I have been to the Brandywine (my last visit was in late August 2019) and I hope that I get to visit again soon (post-pandemic, naturally), as it remains a longtime favorite. If you ever find yourself in the Philadelphia area, I promise it is well worth the trek outside of the city to see it.

. . . . 

on a related note: this 2017 piece in the NYTimes Arts & Design section (written at the time the retrospective exhibit opened) is a fascinating read on Andrew Wyeth's treatment of race in his art. I think the ethos of the piece is really important—Gwendolyn DuBois Shaw, an art historian and professor, sought to identify and acknowledge the power dynamics and disparities at play in Wyeth's work. I think this is a very important perspective to consider when viewing art (of any kind) that addresses race and considering the creator or writer and what claims they have, or don't, to making such depictions, as well as whether their representation is clouded or colored by an imbalance of power or authority. An interesting read with so much practical implication as well.

Backlogging, again—this time, a September 2016 spontaneous trip home on airline miles to alleviate an extreme case of F.O.M.O.

I was a new college freshman when LDS church leaders announced a temple to be built in Philadelphia (!!!)—my home, basically (east coast geography being what it is; Philadelphia is my home airport and my simplest point of reference for where I'm from). Just shy of a decade later (2016), the construction was wrapping up and I saw dozens of posts from friends and family members back home sharing details of the temple open house (the several-week-long event run by church volunteers to give tours of the temple before its dedication and subsequent limited entry) and  of the exterior and their involvement in the open house events. I was a little heartbroken not to be headed back east before its dedication, as I'd likely never have the same kind of opportunity to see all the details of the edifice and share in that bit of history, joy, and celebration. My heartache over this had yet to subside when the final week of the open house dawned. Undeterred, I scoured the internet for decent last-minute airfare, and booked a redeye home for three days hence. I would make it just in time to visit the open house on its very last day. As soon as my plane ticket was secured, my mom was thrilled and took the day off work so we could make a day of it. She picked me up at the airport bright and early, and we found an empty office supply store parking lot on the outskirts of Philly where we sat in the car and talked until it was late enough (late! ha. hello redeye) for at least a few restaurants to open for breakfast.

The Dutch was a delightful discovery—Dutch pancakes (or German pancakes or oven pancakes; I've heard it both [all] ways) being a longtime family and personal favorite. The Pennsylvania Dutch design motifs and bold graphic colorblocking made my design-heart happy as well.

It was such a special experience to visit the temple open house with my mom—she moved to Philadelphia in the 1980s for medical school, and we ran into family friends from New Jersey and Pennsylvania, as well as many well-known faces from her days living in Philadelphia. I loved the design accoutrements paying homage to the rich history of Philadelphia and the area where I grew up and call home. When we arrived, the local fire department was doing some drills for how they would respond if there were an emergency at the temple—I loved passing the fire truck and the firefighters on their way in and out; so much about the moment underscored this city of brotherly love.

After leaving the temple, we made two other stops in the city—a museum double-header, if you will. I'd not been to the Barnes Foundation since its move to the Parkway (in fact, I'd not been there since maybe middle school?!) and I'd forgotten quite how amazing it is. The Matisse mural and the metalwork affixed to the walls between paintings were my most favorite details from this (re)visit. And the Philadelphia Museum of Art is always a delight—my parents have had a membership there for as long as I can remember, and wandering the familiar wings of the museum is always an afternoon well-spent.

prettiest colonial houses in Haddonfield—these are the things I miss when I'm in Utah. <3

All in all, any trip back home to the east coast makes my heart happy and at home, and this was no exception.

Philadelphia is one of my favorite cities and I spent a lot of time there growing up and during my college summers in New Jersey. My mom attended medical school in Center City Philadelphia in the 1980s, so her familiarity with the city definitely influenced my childhood in a major way. I've been meaning to put together a list of some Philadelphia favorites to share with friends headed east for a visit so without further ado: some Philadelphia recommendations.

transportation:

• Remember coins/change (e.g., a roll or two of quarters) for tolls on bridges & highways (better yet: E-ZPass if you have it!).

• If you plan on venturing into South Jersey, familiarize yourself with the colloquially termed "jug handles" (found mainly in South Jersey's urban areas adjacent to Philadelphia & Camden, less so in the rural and shore areas).

• The PATCO trains are a great way to get from south Jersey to Center City Philadelphia if you have a small group and wish to avoid traffic, bridge tolls, and parking fare (with a large group, my feeling is sometimes you're just better off paying a nominal fee for parking/convenience). The PATCO line also has some limited stops within Philadelphia, which may be useful depending on where you're headed. I've parked at the Collingswood and Ferry Avenue Stations on many occasions and taken the train in—it's always been reliable and quick in my experience (check the hours just in case for holidays, weekends, etc.).

favorite areas to explore:

• Society Hill - the top photo in this post is from this darling quiet neighborhood in Philadelphia. It's a beautiful area with numerous historic and beautifully preserved homes. It is a little off the beaten path as far as sight-seeing, but one of my favorite areas of the city to explore. (more photos here)

• Independence Mall & environs - the amazingness of the people-watching increases exponentially as it approaches peak Americana season (July 4).

• South Street - this is a funkier area of the city with lots of quirky shops and restaurants. It is one of the iconic areas of the city and also where the famed Magic Gardens sculpture garden is located.

• Italian Market - so much good food and lots of specialty shops.

• Ben Franklin Parkway - The best comparisons I have for the Ben Franklin Parkway are New York City's Museum Mile and Paris's Champs-Élysées. The Ben Franklin Parkway is anchored by City Hall, JFK Plaza, Logan Square, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Besides these notable locales on the Parkway, it is flanked by museums, mature trees, and greenery. It is a gorgeous area of the city and the view of the skyline from the Museum of Art steps is simply stunning.

• Old City Philadelphia - the more historic areas of Philadelphia are some of my favorite streets to explore (Society Hill falls squarely in Old City Philadelphia, as well as many of the American history sites). Some of the architectural landmarks have been well-preserved, but even in areas where the structures have not stood the test of time, there are still markers educating passerby on notable history and people who walked those streets in earlier days.

things to eat:

• Reading Terminal Market (Reading—of Monopoly fame—pronounced like so)* - Located in an old train terminal, Reading Terminal Market is conveniently near the Philadelphia Convention Center and is ideal for groups with varying dining preferences. The terminal is filled with food stands and there are tables scattered throughout, so decide on a meeting place, then let everyone fend for themselves. P.S. Soft pretzels at any of the Amish farmers market stands are delightful.

• water ice - if you want to pass for a local, replace 'water' with 'wooder' and you'll be set. Water ice is usually a seasonal treat found only in the summer months, though some water ice companies operate year-round.

• High Street on Market - This is a fairly recent discovery and easily one of my favorite spots in Philadelphia (some photos and food details here at the very end). Farm-to-table fare (with a map of Pennsylvania and their sources!!) with delicious flavors. Their menu changes with the seasons, but it looks like they have some items that stay year-round—the 'best grilled cheese ever,' for instance. I can attest to this, and I loved it even more because it was made with potato bread, a staple of the Delaware Valley and my childhood.

• The Dutch - Another fairly recent discovery and another immediate favorite! I was in Philly with my mom last September and we happened upon The Dutch when we were looking for a place to eat breakfast after she picked me up from the airport and my redeye flight. The Pennsylvania Dutch influence is evident in their colorful modern decor and the Dutch babies/German pancakes featured on the menu.

• Shake Shack - the local Shake Shack has fun shake flavors featuring local ingredients, like the Liberty Shell: vanilla custard, Termini Bros. cannoli shell, strawberry purée, and lemon ricotta(!).

• sweet green - This chain can be found on both east and west coasts, but each location features ingredients sourced from farms in the surrounding area. The Garden State is just across the river, after all!

• Federal Donuts - I can't speak for their chicken, but their donuts are top-notch. I also love the design of the small interior—the seating design solution is brilliant.

• Lorenzo's pizza - my favorite pizza in Philly (located on South Street, though it appears they have opened another location!). (P.S. if you venture down the shore, my favorite pizza down the shore is Manco and Manco, or 'Mack and Manco's,' as we locals call it, not to cause any confusion)

• cheesesteaks and hoagies—as a longtime vegetarian, I am of no help to you here. This list suggests you skip the classic Pat's-Geno's cheesesteak rivalry in favor of something more worthy of your time and taste buds. See also: Wawa's annual Hoagiefest is a beloved local event.

• Wawa - a convenient source for hoagies throughout the Delaware Valley region. I highly recommend their chocolate banana smoothie (which you can order through the order screens at the deli counter).

• The Bourse* - the Bourse was the first commodities exchange in the U.S. in the 19th Century and is recognized on the National Historic Register. Today it houses offices on its upper floors and on the main level, standard food court fare along with some eateries with a little Philadelphia flair. It's nothing too fancy, but the architecture is gorgeous and it is a nice escape to the air conditioning if you're in the neighborhood (Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell are a stone's throw away).

• Nuts to You - this is more for if you're in the neighborhood and in need of a snack, but they're a longtime Philadelphian business and my mom went there back when she was in medical school.

*good for groups

museums & monuments:

• Philadelphia Museum of Art - the Philadelphia Museum of Art is wonderful. They have an impressive permanent collection (favorites include VanGogh's sunflowers and the Impressionists; the Cy Twombly gallery; architectural installations: Japanese teahouse, Indian temple, and Chinese palace hall; and decorative arts, specifically of the 1950s and 1960s). Their special exhibits are also great and well-curated—some favorites I've seen were Frida Kahlo and Manet and the Sea. The base of the iconic front steps also houses a statue of Rocky, for any fans who might be reading.

• The Barnes Foundation - while their move to Center City was highly controversial, the Barnes has been reconfigured faithfully and with integrity and their new location is so accessible. I love the Matisse murals and the Barnes is an incredible art experience and glimpse into a brilliant mind. It is unlike any other museum or private collection I have seen—Albert Barnes's philosophies and the breadth of his collection and the ways he organized it are fascinating. I love the metalwork which is placed strategically and calls attention to interesting patterns and repeated forms in the art juxtaposed with it.

• Rodin Museum - located on the Ben Franklin Parkway and a great museum to see if you've already seen the two aforementioned museums.

• Independence Hall - These last three are pretty self-explanatory and located in close proximity. The square behind Independence Hall is lovely and shaded with lots of trees (including a moon tree!).

• the Liberty Bell - I love the thoughtful architecture of the Liberty Bell monument (photographic evidence above).

• the Constitution Center - the highlight of our high school field trip to the Constitution Center was the room full of bronze statues of the Constitution signers with whom we took many a silly photo.

shops & miscellany:

• 18th & Walnut Street Anthropologie - see the photo above—this Anthropologie store is located in the most beautiful building. The central staircase is my favorite feature, but they use all the architectural details of this space to their fullest potential and it is amazing at any time of year (although as evidenced above, Christmastime is magical) to see what installations are filling the space.

• shopping on Walnut Street - one of my favorite things about Philadelphia is that the cross streets in Center City were originally named for the types of trees which lined the street. I think this is such a brilliant idea and as a plant enthusiast, I wholeheartedly approve. Walnut Street in particular is home to great shopping and restaurants.

• Chinatown - always a go-to for fun stationery and office supplies

gardens and parks:

• terrain - the garden-center sister of Anthropologie and every bit as magical.

• the Philadelphia Flower Show - incredible, always. One of my favorite Flower Shows (when I was in high school) featured an Alice in Wonderland scene of 'painting the roses red.' 

• Robert Indiana's LOVE statue in JFK Plaza - an iconic landmark in the City of Brotherly Love.

• There didn't seem to be a great spot to include this, but Philadelphia is a city full of amazing murals. Above is a photo of one of my favorites, flanking a small courtyard and showing large-scale botanical illustrations (strawberries, tulip trees, juniper, and others). Mural Arts Philadelphia facilitates guided tours and has maps online for self-guided tours of 'mural mile.' I haven't done a proper tour, but in my many years of exploring Philly, I can attest to the strong public arts programs and talented street artists there. My dad became acquainted with a local mural artist and arranged some field trips for the students he teaches (and for the Multicultural Club he runs after school). One time we got to go with him to help with painting a mural; the artist had formulated a paint-by-number for his designs that made collaboration with community members, school kids, and others so simple. One of the murals I love by this mural artist is a monumental draped American flag on a building, visible on your right as you cross the Ben Franklin Bridge into the city.

other Liz favorites:

• the Dream Garden by Maxfield Parrish and Louis Comfort Tiffany studios - my mom's favorite and mine too. Maxfield Parrish is one of the famous illustrators of the 'Golden Age of Illustrators' and one of several of the period from the Philadelphia area. This mosaic collaboration was going to be demolished but it was purchased by the Philadelphia Academy of the Fine Arts and is beautifully showcased in the lobby of an office building across the street from Independence Hall. THAT PARRISH BLUE.

• Philadelphia Free Library - fun to explore and they always have neat events and private collections on display. My cousins and I visited when there was a showcase of Beatrix Potter's illustrations and letters and it was one of my favorite things.

• Philadelphia LDS Temple - if you visit after you see Independence Hall, you may pick up on the themes and colors of Federal architecture and design (both exterior and interior), which I really love. It is such a beautiful temple.

• Joe Fox Bookshop (for You've Got Mail! aficionados) - I think this speaks for itself.

• Society Hill - already noted above, but worth a second mention. The 500-block of Delancey Street is particularly amazing.

off the beaten path:

• day trip to the Jersey shore - my favorite beaches in New Jersey are, in no particular order, Ocean City, Wildwood, Atlantic City, and Cape May. Atlantic City has the perfect long sandbar if you enjoy boogie boarding or body-surfing. Ocean City has the best boardwalk (and pizza!). Wildwood is just a longtime favorite. Cape May is probably the most historic, home to lovely Victorian houses and the Cape May-Lewes ferry.

• Brandywine River Museum in Chadds Ford, PA - a family favorite featuring several generations of Wyeths. The architecture is particularly lovely, as is its location in rural Pennsylvania.

• Lancaster, PA - some of the prettiest country in the east coast. My dad would take frequent business trips to western Pennsylvania's farming communities and I grew up loving Lancaster and environs.

• antique shopping in Mullica Hill, NJ - not far from Philadelphia and a quaint south Jersey community with a lot of unique antique shops and antique malls.

LOVE you, Philly.